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What is the Methodological Framework of the French Environmental Cost? 

A National Approach to Environmental Scoring

The french environmental cost, part of the Environmental Labeling initiative (Affichage Environnemental), was designed to give consumers transparent information on the environmental cost of fashion products. It is deeply rooted in national regulation and aims to make sustainability measurable and comparable across products.

Score

The french environmental cost is expressed in points and based on the total yearly environnemental impact of an EU citizen (which represents 1,000,000 points).

Methodology & Database

  • Based on ADEME 2018 guidelines and aligned with the PEFCR Apparel & Footwear methodology.

  • Uses the Base Empreinte 3.0 (with processes from Ecoinvent) database for Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) calculations.

  • Functional unit: wear and use of a garment for its full life cycle.

Products & Indicators

  • Covers ready-to-wear clothing only (not shoes or non-textile accessories).

  • Uses the same 16 LCA indicators as the European methodology.

Additional Calculations

The French methodology includes specific factors to capture the realities of product use and consumer habits:

  • LCA correction: chemicals and toxicity impacts added to improve wet processes models and take the processes location into account
  • Non-LCA complementary indicators: 
    • Microfibers: coefficient that depends on the nature of the fiber (synthetic, natural, artificial).
    • Out of Europe Export: reflects the exportation of products to foreign second hand markets as part of their end-of-life
  • Score adjustment: 

    • Non-physical durability: a non-physical durability multiplier linked to promotion to repair and product range.

    • Physical durability (not defined yet)

Communication & Compliance

  • Still voluntary for now but display rules are already enforced (e.g. displayed scores should be declared on the french government’s portal in strict compliance with the methodological notice). The display of any environmental impacts must be accompanied by the french environnemental cost.

  • After the decree publication, failure to comply with the rules governing its implementation is punishable by the Article L. 541-9-14 of the Environment Code

  • Score format: expressed as the impact of the product and per 100g of product.

 

For more details on the french environmental cost's framework and computation you can read this article.